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Our building, H Queen’s, is something genuinely unique, an arts hub running through 24 storeys of modern architecture. “An icon of urban aesthetics”, it calls itself, and it’s crammed with eye-popping, thought-provoking and influential galleries, projects and events. The building itself is right at the heart of Central: shopping, dining, business... the international focal point of Hong Kong.

The restaurant seats 104, with space for 8 at the bar and 14 on the terrace for street views. That we have an entrance at street level makes for one of the most spectacular of transitions: the door closes behind you and the chaos, the noise, the myriad scents are gone. You are on another continent. You have to smile. LPM Hong Kong really has the feel of an extended family... first-time guests shake their heads at just how many people seem to know each other. Doesn’t anyone remain at their table...?